Canadian Innovation - Proven Anti-aging Skincare

Founder of Island Skincare: Esthetican, Post Secondary Instructor for Hair Design and Esthetics, Lisa Walsh

This is the first time we have opened our treasure chest of research with the world. It feels great to open our research, it is why our skincare works and the facts speak for themselves.

This blog is quite technical, but well done by our R&D department and verified through third party research with several Canadian research entities mentioned further down in the article. 

Unique blends are prepared from our botanical extracts collection to target skin conditions related to skin healing, aging, sensitive skin and acne. We have access to some of the rarest and unique botanical extracts with exceptional antioxidant capacities and high flavonoid content. These extracts are the key active ingredients in our formulations.

 We did extensive literature research as well as advanced testing on dozens of botanical extracts to determine the presence of specific compounds (phenolic and non- phenolic antioxidant compounds) in each extract. These results have been verified by National Research Council, Memorial University of Newfoundland and Research and Development Corporation. (2012-2017)

There are approximately 4,000 naturally occurring plant metabolites called bioflavonoids. These compounds are responsible for the vibrant-color of many fruits, vegetables, and flowers. They defend your skin against the damaging effects of stress, pollution, and the signs of aging.

 Bioflavonoids have the ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species by donating one of their electrons, thus stabilizing the molecule and breaking the oxidative chain. This can result in visible signs of healthy, more vibrant skin.

 Three of the better-known bioflavonoids, quercetin, hesperidin, and rutin, have intriguing research indicating their abilities to prevent and reverse wrinkles, reduce the appearance of age spots, and fight spider veins, and improve overall skin health. It is these three bioflavonoids our research is focused on. 

By combating the signs of aging at the cellular level, not only can you effectively delay them from occurring—one can rejuvenate skin that is already showing the signs of old age and create extra protection for the skin barrier.

Quercetin, a bioflavonoid found in apples, berries, parsley, onions,grapefruit, and wine, has proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. When applied topically, quercetin has been shown to protect the skin’s natural antioxidants from depletion caused by UVA irradiation. This action helps decrease the oxidative damage caused by exposure to the sun. This does not mean you can drink gallons of wine and look younger!

Quercetin's real anti-aging power comes from its ability to extend the survival and viability of human skin cells. When skin cells stop replicating,your skin loses elasticity and collagen, which results inwrinkles. One study showed that when quercetin and rutin (another bioflavonoid) were applied to

dying skin cells that had ceased to replicate, the skin cells were rejuvenated and began to reproduce again. 

Another interesting property of quercetin is its ability to increase the production of collagen a substance necessary for vibrant skin.This beneficial effect has made it an increasingly popular ingredient in more and more skin care products aimed at combating wrinkles.

 Research has demonstrated that there's another factor that plays a significant role in how old you look: the evenness of your skin tone. The ability to lessen the appearance of age spots and the

capacity to provide a lightening effect for sallow, age-damaged skin is central to achieving this goal.

One of the best ways to do that is with the bioflavonoid hesperidin.

Hesperidin has a similar structure to hydroquinone, a compound that has long been considered the

professional gold standard for the treatment of age spots and other hyperpigmentation disorders.

Like hydroquinone,hesperidin works by limiting the capacity of the skin cells to produce tyrosinase,

the enzyme responsible for producing the skin pigment melanin. However, unlike hydroquinone,

hesperidin does not come with a list of side effects. In fact, research has demonstrated that

hesperidin safely produces a reduction in tyrosinase activity. By interfering with tyrosinase activity, hesperidin is ultimately able to inhibit the development of age spots.

 

Hesperidin has outstanding potential for cosmetic use. Its vaso protective and skin-lightening actions work to counteract many of the visible signs of aging.

Hesperidin is a flavonoid mostly found in the pulps and rinds of citrus fruits. It has been shown to be

useful in treating the complaints of menopause and in dealing with the viruses that cause herpes, the

flu, and certain respiratory ailments. Hesperidin fights allergic reactions by blocking the release of

histamine. It may also help reduce edema (accumulation of fluid) in the legs.

Hesperidin deficiency has been linked to weaknesses in the walls of the blood vessels, pain and

weakness in the hands and feet, and leg cramps at night.

Age lines and age spots aren't the only visible signs of aging. Spider veins and varicose veins are

unsightly and often embarrassing reminders that we're not as young as we used to be.

Although many people believe that these are inevitable factors in the aging process, research has proven that it is possible to defy these signs of old age.

 Spider veins and varicose veins occur as a result of the gradual weakening and deterioration of

capillaries. In order to maintain healthy blood circulation, it's imperative that the arteries and

capillaries be kept as clean and strong as possible. Unfortunately, being so small, the capillaries are

extremely susceptible to damage from free radical assault, aging, and other factors that can lead to

compromised integrity and function. This can lead to rupturing and bleeding that is visible as "broken 

veins" on the surface of the skin. However, maintaining the health of the circulatory system can prevent this type of damage from occurring.

 

One of the best ways to maintain the health of your capillaries is with a bioflavonoid found naturally in fruits and vegetables called rutin. Rutin has the capacity to regenerate vitamin C after it neutralizes a free radical, thus helping to restore its antioxidant potential.

Because vitamin C plays a critical role in

the manufacture of collagen, an important component of capillary walls as well as the sustaining framework of the epidermis, this could have a dramatic impact on the health of your skin

 Rutin.It is also called rutoside.

Rutin has the ability to protect skin from damage caused by advanced glycation end products (AGEs).

AGEs accelerate the aging of skin cells,which cause the skin to lose elasticity and collagen.

One clinical study found that rutin can effectively modulate the breakdown of collagen caused by AGEs.

Rutin can be helpful in maintaining rigid blood vessels, and can help people who bleed or

bruise easily from injury. Because it's generally beneficial for circulatory problems, this flavonoid is

often recommended for varicose veins and poor circulation. Rutin also helps the body utilize vitamin

C and maintain collagen. Collagen helps keep our skin healthy, elastic, and firm. Collagen breakdown has been attributed to wrinkles and lines.

Rutin's ability to provide microvascular protection, improve circulation,and defend against free

radical damage makes it an excellent ingredient in any natural skin care formulation for aging skin.

Also, because rutin can penetrate the skin, its use in a topical skin care formulation makes it extremely valuable.

 As potent as these plant metabolites are on their own, they exhibit an even greater effect when

they're used together, as studies have shown they work synergistically by harmonizing with each other.Together, these three natural ingredients provide the rejuvenating power we need to help

redefine aging skin and to fight the signs of premature aging such as spider veins, wrinkles, age spots, and more.

Quercetin:

Quercetin is a flavonoid widely distributed in nature. The name has been used since 1857

Quercetin is chemically related to a class of flavonoids called(pro)anthocyanins.  

These three bioflavonoids (rutin, hesperidin, and quercetin ) working together provide exponential

antioxidant benefits to skin and is the heart of our research findings in our NRC, MITACS, RDC and in-house lab research and development. They boost healthy blood circulation as well as making the

blood cells relatively thinner, hence increasing the effectiveness for the blood cells to deliver oxygen

and nutrients to the skin. We have developed extract blends from rare botanicals growing on the island of Newfoundland 

to create solutions to improve aging, acne, sensitive skin and menopausal skin.

 

Other effects from using Hesperidin is it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase (responsible for the skin to

produce melanin) so indirectly you have brighter and more even skin tone.

Quercetin on the other hand, works together with your own’s natural antioxidants (such as glutathione) and preventing them

from damaged caused by UV rays. Quercetin also helps to improve skin’s overall elasticity.

 Depending on the presence of specific phytochemicals, the extracts are mixed in such proportion

and concentration to prepare specific blends targeting aging, sensitivity and acne.

The combination of phenolic and non-phenolic compounds when present together, work in synchrony against some specific skin conditions related to

aging. 

 The bioflavonoids, quercetin, hesperidin, and rutin, work in synchrony to prevent and reverse wrinkles, reduce the appearance of age spots, and fight spider veins and varicose veins. 

These key ingredients improve skin healing and/or improve specific skin conditions. 

Quercetin is a topical anti-wrinkle ingredient that reduces

pre-existing wrinkle depth through a novel mechanism. This active peptide works by

significantlydown-regulating muscle contraction, interfering with the neurotransmitters that make

your muscles contract, thereby preventing the formation of unwanted lines and wrinkles. This natural

ingredient appears to be especially beneficial for visibly reducing wrinkle depth around the eyes and forehead (Benson 2007; Blanes 2002; Ruiz 2010). 

By nourishing and protecting the skin's ability to heal and reproduce, bioflavonoids like quercetin,

hesperidin, and rutin help to safely and naturally restore and maintain skin health.

 

Rutin and Hesperidin are essential bioflavonoids and accessory nutrients to form a Vitamin C

Complex (previously known as Vitamin P factor).They function synergistically with Vitamin C in regard

to maintaining healthy capillaries, to help form collagen in connective tissue, to help heal wounds,

and to support a healthy immune system. 

Products commercialized using these blends in the ISC range are:

All the Arctic Sunshine collection, Labrador Tea Night Cream, Aurora Face Cream, Aurora Sleep Masque, ReLeaf Hand Cream, Muscle Recovery Balm and Avalonia Masque.

 

 *The Fogo Island Inn Collection - an amenity collection for the Inn's 29 rooms which we have been supplying since 2014 also includes these extract blends

 ISC also developed an  isopropyl alcohol sanitizer to help combat COVID in the province using the above botanical blends to create a sanitizer to protect the integrity of the skin barrier for the public and essential workers in particular. This was approved as an NHP certified product.

Taking the time to complete this research gave us the validity that we suspected we had discovered in botanicals in the province, specifically on the Avalon Peninsula where daily fluctuating temperatures challenge plants for their very survival. They have adapted to our ever changing north easterly island climate and they pass on those same adaptogenic properties to us to in these blends we have researched and developed to create skincare that improves skin aging, acne and sensitivity. 

We have notoriously sensitive skin here and our weather does not help skin conditions. Where better to conduct research on new skincare ingredients? After all our body's largest organ and first line of protective defence.

 


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